Sgùrr Dearg and the In Pinn
- ️@walkhighlands
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Summary
The summit of Sgùrr Dearg is truly fantastic viewpoint, but is better known as of the most dramatic spots on the Cuillin ridge, being overtopped by the improbable tower of the Inaccessible Pinnacle. This circuit visits the base of the pinnacle but does not include the ascent, which is a rock-climb. Even omitting the pinnacle, this is an extremely rough walk with a great deal of rocky terrain, some scrambling and very tricky route-finding.
Bog Factor (key)
Terrain
The actual scrambling is straightforward if the best lines are taken, but route finding throughout can be difficult. Easy route for Grade 5. If you want to climb the pinnacle but do not have rock-climbing skills, experience and equipment, then you need to hire a guide.
Public Transport
None to start.
Start
Parking opposite the Glen Brittle Memorial hut. Open in Google Maps.
Hillwalking in Winter
Please note that hillwalking when there is snow lying requires an ice-axe, crampons and the knowledge, experience and skill to use them correctly. All route descriptions and difficulties given here are for summer conditions. See our Winter Skills page for basic information on the essential skills, techniques and knowledge needed for winter hillwalking.
Stage 1
Park opposite the Glen Brittle Memorial hut, which is just beyond the mountain rescue building as you head down Glen Brittle towards the sea. The walk begins 50m further down the road towards the beach; turn left onto a big clear footpath alongside some sheep pens. The path soon leads to a bridge over the Allt Coire na Banachdich; cross this and continue uphill on the path. Further on, the path passes close to the rim of a great bowl, with a fabulous view of the impressive Eas Mòr falls tumbling into the tree-filled gorge.
Stage 2
Shortly after the gorge take the left fork, following the clear path slightly downhill and first, and then on up into the corrie. The path becomes rougher and rockier, keeping to the right side of the corrie to climb a broad stony gully. Emerge from this into upper Coire na Banachdich, with the high cliff of Window Buttress looming above you. The back of the coire is blocked by cliffs, split by an impressive gully (the ascent of which is a serious rockclimb). After crossing the burn turn right alongside it, keeping to the left bank. As the ground steepens, zigzag left up the broken slabby rocks and scree, to pass high above the stream where it flows in a gorge. There are very occasional small cairns.
Stage 3
Keep working up the broken rocky slopes, eventually bearing right of the corrie headwall. Just to the right of here a wide stony gully comes down. Head up this gully (occasional cairns), which narrows higher up. Near the top turn right on a worn path across the crag, then continue up more broken ground when it becomes easier again. The way up onto the ridge is again blocked by cliffs; begin traversing left, keeping below these cliffs. Continue traversing across rocky and scree-covered ground for some distance, ignoring the obvious steep scree gully heading up the cliffs.
Stage 4
At one point it becomes necessary to descend slightly to pass below a crag. Beyond this cross some boulders and then head right towards the lowest point on the whole ridge, the Bealach Coire na Banachdich. The bealach, at 851m, is (amazingly) the easiest pass between Glen Brittle and Loch Coruisk. It is a very narrow gully with steep rocks on both sides, and has orange soil. If the bealach you have reached doesn't have orange soil, you're probably at a second bealach slightly to the north; go back a very short distance down the scree and then back up to the left to reach the true bealach shown in the photo.
Stage 5
There is a short scramble out of the bealach up the right hand wall; there is a staircase of good footholds though the rocks are often wet. Above this the going becomes much easier; the ridge narrows briefly and there are great views of the steep north face of Sgùrr Dearg before a clear path begins zigzagging up the broad scree slope beyond. This path emerges suddenly at the summit of Sgùrr Dearg, with the startling sight of the Inaccessible Pinnacle ('In Pinn' to its friends) directly ahead. This is a great spot to watch climbers abseiling down the steep west side, which is a Very Difficult rock-climb.
Stage 6
The east ridge is much longer but less steep, being a Moderate rockclimb with incredible exposure, the ridge being less than a foot wide 'with an overhanging and infinite drop on one side, and steeper and further on the other' as the Victorian climbers had it. The first ascent was made in 1880 by the Pilkington Brothers, two of the leading mountaineers of the day. The Pinnacle is still the hardest mountain summit to reach in the British Isles, and is the only Munro that calls for rockclimbing skills and equipment. If you are not a rock-climber, you can't even think of attempting the In Pinn without help from a mountain guide or a rock-climbing friend, and ropes, harnesses etc.
Stage 7
Our descent route heads down the West Ridge. Follow a path on the right side of the crest of the ridge at first; soon it returns to the crest. Slightly further along, descend an easy gully on the left side of the ridge, taking you down to another clear path, now contouring across the left (E) side of the ridge. The path has a slightly exposed section but is clear to follow for a short distance before another descent down broken rocks to the left leads to another clear section of path. This path descends a very short and easy gully before continuing along the side of the ridge, eventually emerging back near the top of Sgùrr Dearg Beag.
Stage 8
The views across Coire Lagan to Sgùrr Alasdair (with the Great Stone Chute looking unclimbable) are magnificent, as are the vistas of the Small Isles, Eigg, Rum and Canna. The easiest descent from Sgùrr Dearg Beag is again on the left side; it is possible to see a clear section of path from just below the crest of the ridge. Descend to this path and continue down it, crossing a few slabby rocks and a good deal of broken ground. The scrambling is now behind, and the path continues zigzagging down the steep slope towards the flat ground above Window Buttress.
Stage 9
The ridge bends slightly left here to descend again down to the final point on the ridge, the bump of Sròn Dearg above Loch an Fhir bhallaich. From Sròn Dearg continue along the ridge. At a steep section the path keeps just to the right side. Once easier ground is thankfully reached at last, a clear path leads down to join the outward route above Eas Mòr. From here retrace your steps back to the start.
Route Profile
