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Use of Collagen in Cosmetic Products - PubMed

  • ️Mon Jan 01 2024

Review

Use of Collagen in Cosmetic Products

Barbara Jadach et al. Curr Issues Mol Biol. 2024.

Abstract

Collagen (CLG) belongs to the family of fibrillar proteins and is composed of left-handed α polypeptide chains, which, twisting around themselves and their axis, form a right-handed superhelix. In the chemical structure, it contains mainly proline, hydroxyproline, glycine, and hydroxylysine. It occurs naturally in the dermis in the form of fibers that provide the skin with proper density and elasticity. The review aimed to present the types of collagen protein, factors affecting its structure and its unusual role in the functioning of the human body. Also, an overview of cosmetic products containing collagen or its derivatives, the characteristics of the formulas of these products, and the effects of their use were presented. Throughout the market, there are many cosmetic and cosmeceutical products containing CLG. They are in the form of fillers administered as injections, belonging to the group of the oldest tissue fillers; products administered orally and for topical use, such as creams, gels, serums, or cosmetic masks. Analyzed studies have shown that the use of products with collagen or its peptides improves the general condition of the skin and delays the aging process by reducing the depth of wrinkles, improving hydration (in the case of oral preparations), reducing transepithelial water loss (TEWL), as well as improving skin density and elasticity. In addition, oral application of bioactive CLG peptides has shown a positive effect on the nails, reducing the frequency of their breakage.

Keywords: collagen; cosmeceutical products; cosmetics; skin.

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Conflict of interest statement

The authors declare no conflicts of interest.

Figures

Figure 1
Figure 1

(a) Structure of collagen fibers; (b) main amino acids in collagen structure (reprinted from [28]).

Figure 2
Figure 2

Properties of collagen.

Figure 3
Figure 3

Main role of collagen in the body.

Figure 4
Figure 4

The main effects of collagen deficiency in the body.

Figure 5
Figure 5

Comparison young and aged skin (reprinted with permeation from [45]).

Figure 6
Figure 6

Factors influencing the structure of collagen.

Figure 7
Figure 7

Steps of glycation of collagen fibers, (A) Lysine glycation (red font—reduced glucose attached to lysine molecule and forming a Schiff base); (B) Collagen fibril via glycation cross-linking (red lines—bonds formed during the glycation process); (C) Abnormal collagen fiber (red lines—bonds formed between fibers) (reprinted from [58]).

Figure 8
Figure 8

Comparison of fibroblasts and collagen fibrils in young and aged skin (reprinted from [49]). Reduced fibroblasts size stimulates intracellular ROS generation. In the young human skin dermis, intact collagen fibrils interact with cells to maintain normal cell spreading and size (left). In contrast, in the aged human skin dermis (right), broken collagen fibrils are unable to support normal cell spreading, and this causes reduced cell size. One of the prominent features of the collapsed cells is the increase in intracellular ROS generation.

Figure 9
Figure 9

Sources and application of collagen (Reprinted from [62]).

Figure 10
Figure 10

Types of products with collagen.

Figure 11
Figure 11

Delivery mechanism of collagen in human body (A–C); effect of action of collagen in the body (D) (reprinted from [33]).

Figure 12
Figure 12

Effects of the use of ELASTEN® product (reprinted from [17]).

Figure 13
Figure 13

Application of collagen in the cosmetic products.

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